MILOON INGREDIENTS GUIDE: Part 4. (ANTI WRINKLE)

 

miloon guida ingredienti anti rughe

 

Wrinkles are a natural process. Not everyone accepts’em, yet we can reduce’ em. Korean routine philosophy reminds us that we can take care of our skin with natural products. Whatever your beauty regimen, these natural ingredients are the foundation of creams, cleansers, fabric masks and serums, committed to make your skin healthier, brighter and younger.  But how do wrinkles form? And what are its main causes? Finally, what are the ingredients that allow us to prevent wrinkles or at least trying to reduce them? These and many other topics related to Korean cosmetics are part of the last chapter of Miloon’s K-Beauty guide to  label’s ingredients.  For every need of yours, there’s always the wide range of Korean beauty products form you to discover on miloon.eu. Ready to get the most out of your skin care?

HOW DO WRINKLES HAPPEN?

How do wrinkles happen? This is the first and most important question.  wrinkles born in the dermis, the deepest part of the skin, as a result of the action of internal and external factors. Regardless of the type of skin, wrinkles surely are an indicator of the response of our body to time passing by However,  we must not underestimate the influence of external factors such as lifestyle and our habits.

What are the causes of wrinkles?

So let’s explore the causes of wrinkles and see how certain ingredients can help mitigate this completely natural skin phenomenon. Let’s immerse ourselves in the world of Microcirculation, Fibroblasts, Free Radicals, Photo Aging and Smoking.

Microcirculation.

By microcirculation we mean the network of small blood vessels present in the dermis that nourishes the cells that promote proper cell turnover. The microcirculation is linked by a double thread to the brightness of the skin. When, with age, the capillary vessels tend to expand and loose elasticity, the amount of blood, oxygen and nutrients brought to the cells decreases. As a result, the energy available to the cells themselves, which produce less collagen and elastin, also decreases.  The result? Increasingly visible wrinkles.

Fibroblasts.

Fibroblasts are natural producers of elastin, collagen and glycosaminoglycans, also called skin “sugars”, precursors of hyaluronic acid. These form the matrix of support of the dermis, responsible for the turgid and full effect typical, for example, of the skin of the newborn.  With age, the number of fibroblasts decreases, and their reproductive capacity also slows down. The supporting tissue thus becomes less dense and tends to yield. The dermis collapses. The volumes and contours of the face change and signs and grooves of varying depth appear on the epidermis… our hated wrinkles.

Free radicals.

Free radicals are perhaps the most important cause of the formation of wrinkles. As you will know from our guide, free radicals are waste products that are formed within the cells: in physiological conditions there is balance between their generation and neutralization by the anti-oxidative mechanisms of defense of the body. However, when the production of free radicals prevails, damage is caused, called oxidative stress, which, in the long run, leads to progressive wear and tear that also affects the work of the fibroblasts. To keep such balance under control, it is necessary to include antioxidant foods such as fruit and vegetables in the diet, or take them in the form of supplements; limit the consumption of alcohol, keep stress at bay, avoid smoking and do not exaggerate with exposure to UV rays to limit photo-ageing.

Photoaging.

The reason why Korean cosmetics are so obsessed with sunscreen is soon said: UV rays hit our skin and damage it at any time of year. Regardless of time and season. Exposure to the sun without protection factors accelerates photo-aging, causing the skin to lose structure and support, given by the fibroblasts. Thus the epidermis flattens out, thus losing its turgidity and opening to wrinkle.

Lifestyle.

Korean skin is life, like oxygen. Oxygenation of the skin is an indispensable prerequisite for its health, otherwise the oxidative process will dramatically increase. Motion, nutrition and smoking are all critical factors when it comes to healthy, young skin.

Smoking.

But that’s not all: did you know that sucking from a cigarette involves a continuous and repetitive movement of contraction of the orbicular muscle of the mouth that over time leads to the formation of vertical wrinkles on the upper lip, called barcodes? 

Hormonal causes.

Especially in women, hormones (especially estrogens), which in women, help the skin to maintain hydration and firmness. In fact, when in menopause there is first a fluctuation and then a decrease in these hormones, the skin becomes drier. The activity of the sebaceous glands then decreases, with a reduction in the hydrolipidic film that exposes the skin more to the attacks of UV rays. 

How Korean cosmetics can help: the ingredients against wrinkles.

 So far, we have carried out a thorough reconnaissance of how wrinkles are created and we have identified the main causes of their onset. It’s time to attack and start fighting wrinkles, analyzing the main ingredients of Korean cosmetics against these annoying imperfections: Collagen, Adenosine, Vitamin C, Niacinamide.

As we have already had the opportunity to treat in previous episodes of the Miloon Guide to the ingredients of K Beauty (for more details you can check them here IIIIII).

 

 

VITAMIN C.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is a key ingredient in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle skin care, gently illuminating and smoothing the skin. Its antioxidant power helps protect the skin from free radical damage caused by the environment, as this can break the collagen barrier and promote wrinkles and muscle relaxation.

There are several types of vitamin C that are used in skin care products, including L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl sodium phosphate ascorbyl-ascorbyl-ascorbate ascorbyl-ascorbate and retinyl ascorbate.

The former has most of the scientific research surrounding its benefits and is considered the “king” of vitamin C.  L-ascorbic acid increases collagen production and smoothes and firms the skin, as well as counteracting photo-aging. However, any type of vitamin C in the serum and moisturizing lotion offers some benefit to the skin. Research has shown that just 0.6% vitamin C can help protect the skin from free radicals and aging.  

Where can Vitamin C be found?

Vitamin C is widely known for its antioxidant benefits for the body but also for the skin, brilliantly increasing collagen while helping to treat exposure to UV photo-damage.

Curiosity: The real name of vitamin C ascorbic acid.

What are the properties of vitamin C when it comes to skin care and  fighting wrinkles?

Vitamin C has a plumping, lifting and anti-wrinkle effect, since it is essential both for the synthesis of collagen and to combat its degradation by specific enzymes. Remember that when antioxidants are exposed to light and air too often they can break, so it is best to opt for hermetically sealed formulas, ampoules or individually packaged disposable products.

Vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants and has the ability to renew itself thanks to new scientific knowledge, which has made it more stable even when included in the formulas of creams, serums and masks.

Vitamin C is most commonly recommended for the morning regime when it comes to protecting the skin from UV damage and environmental aggressors. However, as research has shown that free radicals continue to damage the skin at night, it can also be used at night.

If you are using glycolic or salicylic acid (see dedicated guide episode) and retinol, you will need to allow some time before applying the product to vitamin C to avoid any stingy or redness effects. 

 

miloon guida ingredienti anti rughe

 

COLLAGEN.

What is Collagen?

Collagen is one of the most present proteins in the body, which plays a very important role in health and beauty because it provides the structure to our connective tissue: basically it “supports” it, thus constituting the support of bones, muscles, tendons and ligaments.

Where is Collagen found?

As a protein, collagen is found in almost all living things. But did you know that collagen can be taken through food that should be an integral part of a balanced diet?

Collagen is found in meat (bone stock and skin, for example), on egg white and on some plants, including mushrooms. Vitamin C also plays a crucial role in the production of collagen by promoting and enhancing it. On the other hand, there are some foods that hinder the synthesis of collagen, such as sugars and refined carbohydrates.

Curiosity: In addition to meat, collagen is also present in fish and algae. Marine collagen”, or fish glue, often used as a thickener, is one example. One vegetal version is agar-agar (a natural polysaccharide derived from algae.

Why is collagen important to the skin and how can it prevent wrinkles from appearing?

Degenerative phenomena such as wrinkles, less elastic and compact skin, dull hair, degrading muscles and osteoporosis are partly due to the body’s lower production of collagen.

Just watch out: the molecule of the collagen in beauty creams has is  too large.

Therefore not able to be absorbed by the skin, but it is yet useful to moisturize the most dehydrated skin. That is why it is better to use products that do not contain collagen, but help the synthesis, such as hyaluronic acid, or compounds based on retinol. Alternatively, marine collagen products are always a go. This is a natural extract, composed of proteins and omega-3 fats which, when used as a capsule supplement or as a cosmetic serum, helps to combat the skin’s aging processes and wrinkles.

Finally, hydrolyzed collagen is the result of the transformation of type I collagen (the most common type of collagen present in the human body, found in the skin and bones and accounting for 90% of the total) to obtain a lower molecular weight, an operation that facilitates the absorption of collagen by the body.

Of course, in order to stimulate the production of collagen, we must take into account the factor of nutrition: consuming foods that contain vitamin C, such as citrus fruits, but also in strawberries, kiwis, pineapples and cherries can be an excellent aid to help the body produce collagen. The same applies to foods based on vitamin E, another substance involved in the process of collagen production, such as almonds.

 

miloon guida ingredienti anti rughe

 

ADENOSINE.

What is adenosine?

Adenosine (P1 or Purina-1) is an inhibitory neurotransmitter that has the function of signaling to the brain the levels of oxidative stress (tiredness, stress) accumulated. Adenosine inhibits the release of neurotransmitters by blocking them inside the neurons, warning the brain to “switch off”, but more realistically forcing it to do so. 

Curiosity about Adenosine: There are various substances that act on adenosine receptors and many are also very commonly taken by us humans. Coffee, for example, causes its stimulating effect by acting on these receptors as an antagonist, hindering the work of adenosine. 

Why is Adenosine important for skin care and how does it prevents wrinkees?

Adenosine is a well-known anti-ageing active ingredient, it promotes the production of natural skin components, plumping and reshaping the face, a beauty ally that aims not only to improve the appearance of a skin marked by wrinkles, but also helps to redensify it and redefine the contours. Adenosine is an ingredient that can change the quality of the skin, thanks to its multiple biological effects. In particular, by increasing the proliferation of fibroblasts, it is able to exert an anti-wrinkle effect.

 

 

NIACINAMIDE.

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3 that suppresses melanin from reaching the skin surface and protects the skin from further UV damage. Too much melanin (which is a substance naturally present in the body that is responsible for both its colour and the absorption of UV rays by the skin) can cause age spots, freckles and hyper-pigmentation. According to a study conducted by Proctor and Gamble, the data revealed that 5% of niacinamide applied to the face for 12 weeks led to the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red spots and sallowness (yellowing). In addition, elasticity (measured through cutometry) was improved. In fact: “The topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase levels of ceramide and free fatty acids in the skin, prevent loss of water content and stimulate micro-circulation in the dermis” according to the British Journal of Dermatology in 2000.

Why is niacinamide important for the skin and how does it fights wrinkles?

As we said in the second episode of our guide, niacinamide has also been shown to have some antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Niacinamide is also used to treat acne.

It also improves the performance of the epidermal barrier. The epidermal lipid barrier is what makes the difference in health and appearance of the skin. Niacinamide increases the production of ceramides (an essential component of the lipid barrier), keeping the skin strong and preventing the loss of trans epidermis water (TEWL). The lipid barrier helps to retain the hydrating principles, keeps it hydrated for longer and protects the skin from the harshness of the environment, regardless of the time of year.

Niacinamide protects the skin from the infrared light of the sun. In addition to the harmful effects of UV exposure, infrared activates free radicals and stimulates overproduction of pigmented cells, and if the pigmentation is hormonal, heat is a big problem.

Niacinamide minimizes lines and wrinkles because it increases collagen production. Together with the improvement of the skin’s lipid barrier, it increases cell differentiation which contributes to better synthesis and formation of collagen and elastin.

Finally, it has a strong effect on dull and dull skin. While many antioxidants prevent damage caused by oxidative stress and age, niacinamide reverses its visible signs. With the passage of time and with constant exposure to sad roots, loss of luminosity. That’s why niacinamide does more.  Its antioxidant action reduces the negative impact of oxidative stress and improves the ability of the skin to react to wrinkles.

CONCLUSIONS.

Fighting wrinkles is possible. A healthy lifestyle and a basic knowledge of our skin can help. Then it’s all about knowing how some ingredients can be mixed and incorporated in our K-beauty regimen.

For this, you can always rely on miloon.eu